• SUBSTRATE (We find coco fibre or spider substrate with moss works best)
  • SPOT BULB AND DOME FITTING or HIGH POWERED HEAT MAT (thermostat is recommended)
  • Recommended – UV TUBE and REFLECTOR

Terrestrial Tank Set-Up

For the terrestrial enclosure, you will need a suitable sized glass tank. There are many ways to achieve a suitable temperature (74-76oF). Using a moonlight bulb and dome fitting, connected to a thermostat is a simple and hasssle free way of achieving this. Alternatively, a Habistat High Powered heat mat connected to a Mat Stat works very well. The heat mat should be attached to the exterior side of the tank and covered with a piece of cereal box card or polystyrene on the outside to reduce heat loss. In both cases, the heating sources should be placed at one end of the tank to provide a temperature gradient across the tank.

At the opposite end to the heating elements, you should provide your animal with a deep water bowl. Water bowls with rough edges are preferred as it makes it easier for your animal to get in and out of, alternatively, placing an artificial plant in the water bowl will also work. Tap water can be used, but if in doubt, water treatements are available. You should also spray your animal daily but do not saturate the substrate.

For the substrate, a layer of peat covered by a layer of moss is recommended. The moss and peat must be kept damp at all times. Spot clean the tank regularly removing any faeces or left over food. A full tank clean should only be needed once every 6-8 weeks or more. Providing plenty of hiding places will help your animal feel more secure.  Cork bark and artificial plants work well.

UV lighting is not essential but highly recommended as there have been a growing number cases of metabolic bone disease. We suggest the Arcadia 10% tubes for amphibian species. If using an Exo-Terra glass tank, the bulb should be placed on top of the mesh with a reflector behind it. Reptiles have adapted to living with strong UV radiation from above, so placing the UV tube level or within 45 degrees of your animal’s eye could damage it severely (photokeratoconjunctivitis or cataracts). Symptoms include swelling of the eye(s) and area around it, or cloudy eye(s). This is thankfully not too common but it is better to be safe and not allow your animal to sit alongside or within a few inches of your tube.

It is also important to ensure there are plenty of places such as plants and cork hides so your animal can find shade. It is worth noting that glass filters out all UV and mesh will often halve the effectiveness of your UV source. for this reason we suggest using a reflector to improve the effectiveness of your UV tube. Higher strength UV may be used, but you must be sure your animal has plenty of access to plenty of shade. Always remember to replace your UV tube every 6 months unless the manufacturer suggests otherwise. The tube’s UV producing capability will degrade though the tube will show no obvious sign. As far as we can tell only the Arcadia D3+ and T5 range last 12 months and give a virtually guaranteed 6% UV for the duration of that time.

Health, Handling & Feeding

Handling your frog is not recommended due to a number of issues. However if you do choose to handle your animal, make sure that your hands are wet and clean. It’s strongly suggested that sensible personal hygiene is followed when having to remove your animal from its enclosure. Always use a good hand rub and a good quality anti-bacterial spray on all surfaces after handling.

A terrestrial frog’s diet consists of a range of live insects. Your frog should be fed 3 times a week and should be given as much food as it will ravenously eat leaving no excess in the tank. Excess crickets have been known to bite and dead food will eventually rot, increasing bacteria levels in your tank and increasing the frequency of the need to clean it.


A good quality vitamin supplement is essential to the well-being of your frog. Nutrobal is recommended and this powder should be dusted onto food every 2 out of 3 feeds.

When it comes to your animal’s health, if you are ever in doubt go to a specialist veterinarian. There are a few simple things to look out for.

1. Unusual lethargy
2. Prolonged lack or loss of appetite
3. Eyes sinking back into the head
4. Eyes unclear and or sticky
5. Prolonged diarrhoea
6. Prolonged periods of closed eyes
7. Twitching limbs
8. Unusually forming bone structure


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